I’m taking a few minutes to write this before I go into town for lunch with my friend and partner-in-gardening-crime. She’s more of a traditional gardener, and I’m all about raised beds, containers, and now the dome.

We don’t get to visit during the winter very often because neither of us likes to navigate the snow on the backroads or travel when it’s too cold. And this year has been a year of wind, rain, snow, and more wind.

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

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Chances are I won’t get this published until later today, but at 11:19 AM my time, it’s 30°C in here. (Yes, I’m in the dome enjoying the sun and heat before I have to get ready to go.)

I haven’t spent as much time out here as I wanted to, but with other things needing my attention, it’s been a bit harder.

We had some warmer days and my yard once again became a series of lakes and rivers. My sump pump is looking after what seeps into the crawl space, but I’ve been trying to keep it flowing through the yard as fast as possible.

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Just when I thought I had it all figured out I realized…I didn’t.

Remember when I said I set up the raised beds inside the dome?

Well, I f’d up.

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

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So many people are against AI, and I have to admit, at first I was a little skeptical too. I have learned, however, that it’s only as good as the person typing in the prompts. It’s not a mind-reader, although it almost seems like it once it spits out the results.

Now, as much as I’d like to give this to everyone, I’m going to make it available to only paid subscribers. Even though it was coded with AI, I still spent hours tweaking and getting it to do what I expected it to.

I want it to be utilized by those of you who are looking for gardening answers while you’re in your garden. I’d love to be able to be at your beck and call 24/7, but we both know that’s not the case. So instead of you having to wait to get an answer, the app will tell you what you want to know.

Remember though; it is AI-based so there may be mistakes. I threw a lot of questions at it during testing, and found everything to be spot on, but that doesn’t mean it’ll be the same for every single question.

We had a chat about banana trees, which led to aquaponics in a dome.

Then we talked about raised beds and how many would be needed for a specific space. The part that impressed me with that conversation was that it asked for additional information about bed sizing and orientation. It didn’t just spit out a number: it wanted that number to be right.

My second thought for an app was for plant information (it only gave a select number of plants) and for information on pests and diseases (once again, only a select number). I decided that the initial app I created could provide all of that information when asked.

The only thing the second app did that I liked was let me create a planting guide…but only based on the plants in its knowledge base. (And we all know that our gardens have more than 40 plants.) Plus, the addition of plants made the whole thing look cluttered, and I didn’t like/want that.

So needless to say, I was feeling more frustrated than helped by the time I was done testing it, so nixed it. It gave me the option to add plants manually, but if I knew everything about them all, I wouldn’t need an app.

The app I decided on can do that to an extent, but it’s text-based so not as pretty. I do think there’s a time and place for graph paper, pencils, crayons, and markers; and designing your garden beds is the time. There’s just something about drawing it out on paper that makes you really focus on the plant height, space it requires, and what conditions are favoured.

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You can still use the app for your plant information, but actually drawing the layout on paper is both calming and allowing for creativity. (Or maybe that’s just me.) Either way, AI and the physical world can work side-by-side if we respect the boundaries of both.

If you’d like to get your hands on this app you can hit the subscribe button below. $7/month not only gives you this app, but it also gives you access to all posts, Dome Diaries, videos of my dome and garden (when I record them), and the PDF of the mini-course ($12 value) that I published over the course of a week. Plus, you’ll get access to future digital products before they’re added to my Ko-fi Shop.

Your welcome email contains the link to the app and the mini-course PDF, so be sure to open it so you can start enjoying your app right away.

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If you’re not ready to subscribe and get the perks, you can support me by subscribing for free, sharing my posts and publication, or by buying me a coffee. (The coffee fuels the mind and body as I put in the crazy hours I do behind the scenes.)

Buy me a coffee.

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

— Diane 🌿

I didn’t get too much further with my pond excavation but I did get a few other things done.

I got my solar panels wired to the control box, so now I just have to hook up the battery and the inverter so I have 24/7 power to run the smaller things. I thought the inverter would have enough wattage to run the electric heater, but apparently I was wrong. It’s still kicking it out. The battery should be enough, but maybe my problem is stemming from there. I wish I had an electrician friend who I could ask.

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We’ve reached the end of A Gentle Start to Gardening, and I want to take a moment to honour what you’ve done here. You didn’t just read through a course — you showed up for yourself, your space, and your desire to grow something meaningful.

Gardening is never just about plants. It’s about presence, curiosity, and the quiet courage to begin again each season. And you’ve done that with such gentleness.

Let’s wrap up this journey together.

🌱 What You’ve Learned

Over the past lessons, you’ve:

• set an intention for your gardening journey

• learned to observe your space with curiosity

• built a simple, healthy soil foundation

• chosen beginner‑friendly plants

• planted with ease and intuition

• cared for your garden with consistency

• harvested with joy

• reflected on your growth and planned your next steps

That’s a full gardening cycle — and you moved through it with grace.

🌿 Your Downloadable Mini Course

Paid subscribers now have access to the full A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF ($12 value) — beautifully formatted and easy to print or save. (The PDF will be sent to paid subscribers automatically.)

You can purchase your copy here:

A Gentle Start to Gardening

This is yours to keep, revisit, and use as a companion through every season.

🌸 What Comes Next

This course is just the beginning. From here, you might:

• expand your garden one container at a time

• try a new herb or green

• explore dome gardening

• start a simple garden journal

• plan your next season with intention

• grow something purely for beauty

Your garden will grow with you — gently, steadily, season by season.

🌙 Thank You for Growing With Me

It’s been an honour to walk with you through this course. Thank you for your presence, your curiosity, and your willingness to begin.

If you’d like to continue learning with me, stay tuned — more gentle gardening guides, dome diaries, and small‑space inspiration are on the way.

Here’s to your next season.

— Diane 🌿

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

— Diane 🌿

Subscribe now

You’ve reached the final lesson of A Gentle Start to Gardening. Over these past modules, you’ve observed your space, chosen your plants, planted with intention, tended with care, and harvested with joy.

Now we shift into something quieter and more enduring: your ongoing gardening rhythm.

Gardening isn’t a one‑season hobby. It’s a relationship that grows with you — through seasons, through changes, through life.

It’ll change the way you look at food, space, and the world around you.

And it’ll change who you are by giving you a healthier way to relieve stress.

Let’s look ahead together.

🌱 Planning Your Next Season

Every garden teaches you something. Before you plant again, take a moment to reflect:

• What grew well?

• What struggled?

• What did you enjoy the most?

• What felt like too much?

• What do you want to try next time?

Your answers become your roadmap.

📓 Keeping a Simple Garden Journal

You don’t need a fancy system. A few notes each week can transform your gardening experience.

Try recording:

• planting dates

• weather patterns

• watering rhythms

• harvest notes

• what surprised you

• what you’d do differently

This becomes your personal gardening wisdom — a gift to your future self.

If you want to get something that will help you record your gardening journey I have put together a Gardening Journal. It is filled with pages for seed inventory, planting dates, harvest yields, income/expense sheets (should you wish to sell your produce), planting grids, plant information sheets (for you to fill out based on what you plant), note pages, and so much more. You can get it by clicking on the link below.

Garden Journal

🏡 Expanding Gently

You don’t need to overhaul your garden to grow as a gardener. Expansion can be small, cozy, and intentional.

Consider:

• adding one new container

• trying a new herb or green

• building a small raised bed

• experimenting with a perennial

• exploring dome gardening

• growing something purely for beauty

• adding a trellis to grow vertically

Expansion should feel exciting, not overwhelming.

🌱 Building a Cozy Gardening Rhythm

Your rhythm might include:

• a weekly watering check

• a monthly compost top‑up

• a seasonal planting ritual

• a daily moment of observation

• a quiet walk through your garden with your morning coffee/tea or your evening wine.

Gardening becomes a grounding practice — a gentle anchor in your week. With all the stresses of our world today, spending time in the garden is a healthy habit to have.

🌙 Closing Thought: You Are a Gardener Now

You’ve learned to observe, plant, nurture, harvest, and reflect. You’ve built a relationship with your space and with yourself.

This is only the beginning. Be prepared for more plants, a lower grocery bill, and a healthier you.

Do you feel as if you can tackle the gardening world now?

Leave a comment

Thank you for growing with me.

— Diane 🌿

🌿 Why Go Paid?

A gentle invitation to deepen your gardening journey

If you’ve been enjoying the calm, practical rhythm of Home and Dome Gardening, becoming a paid subscriber is the best way to support this work — and unlock a whole world of extra goodness.

Paid subscribers receive:

• full access to all courses, including the complete A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF

• bonus worksheets, checklists, and printables to make gardening feel simple and doable

• Dome Diaries + behind‑the‑scenes notes from my own garden

• seasonal planning guides for small spaces and domes

• a quiet, supportive community where you can ask questions and share your wins

Your support helps me create thoughtful, gentle gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow. If this space has brought you clarity, calm, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid subscriber.

Let’s keep growing together — one small, intentional step at a time. 🌱

Subscribe now

This is the moment so many gardeners dream about: the first harvest. Whether it’s a handful of herbs, a bowl of greens, or a single, perfect strawberry: harvesting is a celebration of patience, care, and quiet hope.

Let’s make this moment feel joyful, simple, and deeply satisfying.

🌿 Harvesting Is a Conversation

Plants respond to how you harvest them. When you harvest gently and regularly, many plants actually grow more — offering you fresh leaves, new stems, and ongoing abundance. Harvesting before the plant sets seed will give you more through the growing season.

You’re not taking from the plant, but rather partnering with it. It gives you food and you give it a longer lifespan.

🌱 How to Harvest for Maximum Regrowth

Greens (lettuce, kale, spinach, arugula)

• Harvest the outer leaves first.

• Leave the center (the “crown”) intact.

• The plant will keep producing, sometimes more than you think is possible.

• Pinching the leaves off or cutting with kitchen shears works well.

I had an abundance of arugula last year (2025), and several plants went to seed because I couldn’t use all they produced. I’m excited to see how the seeds I saved will germinate. I’ll be planting them before month-end, so if you want to find out how they did, subscribe so you don’t miss the updates.

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Herbs (basil, parsley, chives, thyme)

• Pinch or cut just above a leaf pair.

• This encourages bushier, fuller growth.

• Never remove more than ⅓ of the plant at once.

Tomatoes & Peppers

• Twist gently or snip with scissors.

• Harvest when fully colored and slightly soft.

Strawberries

• Pick when fully red, as they will not continue to ripen after being picked.

• Remove the stem with the berry.

Harvesting is a rhythm, not a one‑time event.

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🍽️ Using Your Harvest in Everyday Meals

You don’t need elaborate recipes. Start simple:

• herbs in eggs, pasta, or salads

• greens layered into sandwiches

• cherry tomatoes on toast or tossed into a salad

• strawberries mixed into yogurt

Let your harvest slip quietly into your daily life. This is why it’s so important to plant the things you enjoy. There’s a much better chance at using all or most of what you grow.

🌱 Saving Seeds (The Easy Ones)

Seed saving can feel intimidating, but some plants make it wonderfully simple. Start with:

• radishes

• arugula

• lettuce

• peas

• beans

• sunflowers

These plants practically save seeds for you — and it’s a beautiful way to continue the life of your garden into the next season.

A note on seeds: start with heirloom varieties, as hybrids will not always give you the same version of what it came from. Hybrids are genetically modified to suit certain traits, which will result in saved seed not being what you expect.

🌙 Closing Thought

Harvesting is more than gathering food. It’s gathering proof that you can nurture something from seed to table. It’s a reminder that growth takes time — and that you’ve been growing right alongside your plants.

What have you taken away from this lesson?

Leave a comment

In our final lesson, we’ll look ahead to your ongoing gardening journey and help you build a rhythm that lasts.

— Diane 🌿

🌿 Why Go Paid?

A gentle invitation to deepen your gardening journey

If you’ve been enjoying the calm, practical rhythm of Home and Dome Gardening, becoming a paid subscriber is the best way to support this work — and unlock a whole world of extra goodness.

Paid subscribers receive:

• full access to all courses, including the complete A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF

• bonus worksheets, checklists, and printables to make gardening feel simple and doable

• Dome Diaries + behind‑the‑scenes notes from my own garden

• seasonal planning guides for small spaces and domes

• a quiet, supportive community where you can ask questions and share your wins

Your support helps me create thoughtful, gentle gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow. If this space has brought you clarity, calm, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid subscriber.

Let’s keep growing together — one small, intentional step at a time. 🌱

By now, you’ve planted something: a seed or a seedling, and hope. And now we shift into the part of gardening that’s less about doing and more about tending. Plants don’t need perfect gardeners. They need present ones.

This lesson is all about building a gentle rhythm of care that feels doable, grounding, and kind to both you and your plants.

💧 Watering Rhythms (Consistency Over Perfection)

Watering is one of the most common stress points for new gardeners, but it doesn’t have to be complicated. You’ll get to know your plants and their needs, so go with the method below and you shouldn’t have any trouble.

Here’s the simplest method I know:

The Finger Test

Stick your finger into the soil up to your first knuckle.

• Dry? Water well.

• Moist? Wait a day and check again.

• Wet? Definitely wait, because if you keep watering you’ll drown your plant.

General rhythms

• Containers dry out faster, especially terra cotta.

• Raised beds hold moisture longer, as there is more soil than what a container has.

• Domes retain humidity beautifully, but it’s the roots that matter most.

Morning watering is ideal, but truly — water when you can. Your plants will adapt.

🌿 Feeding Plants Without Fuss

Plants don’t need elaborate feeding schedules. A simple routine works beautifully:

• Add compost at planting to give your plants the initial boost.

• Use a slow‑release organic fertilizer once a month (In my experience this isn’t always necessary, especially if your soil is healthy to begin with.)

• Add worm castings for an extra little pick-me-up for your plants.

That’s it. No complicated charts. No overwhelm. Just the little things that will help your plants thrive.

✂️ Pruning Basics (Only What You Need to Know)

Pruning can feel intimidating, but it’s simply guiding your plant toward health and airflow.

Herbs

Pinch the tips to encourage bushiness.

Tomatoes

Remove suckers if you want a tidier plant and bigger fruit. Removing the suckers will also improve air circulation which deters pests and diseases.

Peppers

Light pruning improves airflow and fruiting.

You can prune as much or as little as feels comfortable. Plants are forgiving. However, the rule of thumb is to not prune more than one-third of a plant at any one time.

🐛 Pests & Diseases

Every gardener deals with pests. Every single one (no matter what social media says). It’s not a sign of failure — it’s a sign of life.

Start with observation:

• holes in leaves

• sticky residue

• yellowing

• curling

• wilting

Then respond accordingly:

• remove damaged leaves

• spray with water

• use insecticidal soap if needed

• encourage beneficial insects

• improve airflow

You don’t need to panic, and you don’t need to throw out your plant. And you definitely don’t need harsh chemicals.

You just need awareness and a gentle response.

🌙 Closing Thought

Caring for plants is caring for yourself. The rhythm you build here becomes a grounding practice — a moment of presence in your day.

What’s your favourite part about caring for your garden?

Leave a comment

In our next lesson, we’ll celebrate your harvest and talk about how to enjoy what you’ve grown.

— Diane 🌿

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

Subscribe now

Today we get to do something exciting: plant. But before we rush into the doing, I want to offer you a simple truth that changed the way I garden:

Planting is a conversation, not a performance.

You’re not “getting it right” or “messing it up.” You’re giving a plant a home, and the plant will meet you halfway, providing you give it what it needs.

🌱 Direct Sowing vs. Transplanting

There are two main ways to begin a plant’s life in your garden:

Direct Sowing

Planting seeds directly into their final home.

Great for:

• lettuce

• kale

• spinach

• peas

• beans

• herbs like dill or cilantro

Direct sowing is simple, grounding, and perfect for beginners.

Transplanting

Starting with seedlings and moving them into containers or beds.

Great for:

• tomatoes

• peppers

• strawberries

• basil (optional)

Transplants give you a head start and a confidence boost.

You can’t choose “wrong” — you can only choose what feels right for your space and energy.

🌿 Spacing, Depth & Timing

You don’t need charts or calculators. Just a few simple guidelines:

• Seeds are planted to a depth about 2–3 times their size.

• Seedlings are planted at the same depth they were growing before.

• Plants need room to breathe — crowded plants struggle.

• Plant when the soil feels workable and the weather feels stable.

Trust your hands. Trust your eyes. Trust your space.

If this is your first rodeo, go with the guidelines. You’ll develop your own methods as you gain experience. However, some aspects can’t be altered much when it comes to seed and seedling depth.

🪴 How to Plant in Containers, Beds, and Domes

Containers

• Fill with your potting blend

• Water before planting

• Add seeds or seedlings

• Top with a light layer of soil

• Water gently

Raised Beds

• Smooth the soil

• Mark rows or squares. (I personally like to do a mix of rows and squares, depending on where in the bed certain things are being planted.)

• Plant with intention

• Water deeply

Domes

• Treat like a cozy hybrid of both

• Enjoy the warmth and protection

• Water a little less often, depending on the “zone”. (If you want more information on zones in the dome, feel free to reach out.)

Domes are especially forgiving — they create a stable microclimate that helps plants settle in quickly. You are in charge of water, air circulation, and pest control though.

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🌱 A Realistic Planting Calendar

A simple rhythm that works in most climates:

• Early spring: cool-season crops such as greens, herbs, peas, radishes

• Late spring: tomatoes, peppers, strawberries

• Summer: succession planting of greens

• Fall: cool‑season crops again

Your climate will shape the details, but this pattern is a basic starting point. As you get to know the garden and how it’s affected by the climate (and micro-climates), you’ll be able to plant and have bigger wins each year.

🌙 Closing Thought

Planting is an act of hope. You’re placing something tiny into the earth and trusting it to become more. That’s gardening at its core.

“To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow.” — Audrey Hepburn (My favourite quote.)

In our next lesson, we’ll learn how to care for what you’ve planted — with consistency, not perfection.

What are you going to start with? Seeds or transplants? Let me know in the comments.

Leave a comment

— Diane 🌿

🌿 Why Go Paid?

A gentle invitation to deepen your gardening journey

If you’ve been enjoying the calm, practical rhythm of Home and Dome Gardening, becoming a paid subscriber is the best way to support this work — and unlock a whole world of extra goodness.

Paid subscribers receive:

• full access to all courses, including the complete A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF

• bonus worksheets, checklists, and printables to make gardening feel simple and doable

• Dome Diaries + behind‑the‑scenes notes from my own garden

• seasonal planning guides for small spaces and domes

• a quiet, supportive community where you can ask questions and share your wins

Your support helps me create thoughtful, gentle gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow. If this space has brought you clarity, calm, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid subscriber.

Let’s keep growing together — one small, intentional step at a time. 🌱

Subscribe now

Do you have questions or suggestions for posts/courses? Send me a message.

I set up my second trellis, then strung mini lights (solar powered) on it to match the first one. I can’t wait for the plants to be climbing it and meeting in the middle.

I also started digging out the area for my pond. We had a severe temperature dip for a few days so I didn’t get out to do much. I also had my grandkids here from Monday until yesterday morning, so there wasn’t any pond digging those days either.

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This is one of my favourite lessons in the entire course: the moment where your garden begins to take shape in your imagination. Choosing your first plants isn’t about ambition or aesthetics. It’s about building confidence, momentum, and joy.

Let’s choose plants that say “yes” more often than they say “maybe.”

🌱 Start Where Success Lives

Some plants are naturally more forgiving, more enthusiastic, and more willing to grow in small or unusual spaces. These are the plants that help beginners feel capable — and help returning gardeners rebuild trust in themselves.

We’re going to start with those.

🌿 Beginner‑Friendly Plants for Small Spaces

Herbs (almost foolproof)

• basil

• thyme

• mint (in its own pot because it can, and will, take over)

• parsley

• chives

Herbs are generous. They grow quickly, forgive inconsistent watering, and reward you with fragrance and flavour.

Greens (fast, satisfying, low‑pressure)

• lettuce

• kale

• spinach

• arugula

• Swiss Chard

These are perfect for containers, raised beds, and domes. They grow fast and give you early wins.

Compact Fruiting Plants (small but mighty)

• cherry tomatoes

• peppers

• strawberries

These bring a little magic to small spaces. They’re productive, cheerful, and surprisingly adaptable.

🌸 Perennials vs. Annuals: the differences

Annuals

Grow for one season.
Fast, fun, rewarding.
Examples: basil, lettuce, tomatoes.

Perennials

Return year after year.
Slow, steady, dependable.
Examples: thyme, chives, strawberries.

A blend gives you both excitement and stability, plus your garden is always producing something.

🌱 How to Read a Seed Packet Without Feeling Lost

Look for just a few key things:

• sun requirements

• spacing

• depth

• days to maturity

• direct sow or transplant

You don’t need to memorize anything. Just glance and go.

A little note on seed packet information though: the spacing is meant for traditional, in-ground gardens that take up a lot of space. You know…the one’s where regular rototilling needs to be done to keep down the weeds.

In the little gardens we’re discussing here, the spacing won’t be as big of a concern. Since you’ll have more control over the environment you can plant closer together and still have a great harvest. And closer planting means less room for the weeds.

🌿 Choose Your “One Success Plant”

This is your anchor plant — the one you’ll nurture with intention throughout this course.

Choose something that feels:

• manageable

• exciting

• useful

• forgiving

• …and last but not least, be sure it’s something you like.

Reflection prompt:
Which plant will be your “one gentle win” for this course?

Write it down. Say it out loud. Let it settle.

🌙 Closing Thought

Your first plants set the tone for your gardening journey. Choose joy. Choose ease. Choose plants that make you feel capable.

Which plant are you going to start with? Let me know in the comments.

Leave a comment

In our next lesson, we’ll plant them together — simply, intuitively, and without overwhelm.

— Diane 🌿

🌿 Why Go Paid?

A gentle invitation to deepen your gardening journey

If you’ve been enjoying the calm, practical rhythm of Home and Dome Gardening, becoming a paid subscriber is the best way to support this work — and unlock a whole world of extra goodness.

Paid subscribers receive:

• full access to all courses, including the complete A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF

• bonus worksheets, checklists, and printables to make gardening feel simple and doable

• Dome Diaries + behind‑the‑scenes notes from my own garden

• seasonal planning guides for small spaces and domes

• a quiet, supportive community where you can ask questions and share your wins

Your support helps me create thoughtful, gentle gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow. If this space has brought you clarity, calm, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid subscriber.

Let’s keep growing together — one small, intentional step at a time. 🌱

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honored to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

— Diane 🌿

Subscribe now

Now that you’ve spent time observing your space, we’re ready to build the foundation your plants will call home. Soil can feel intimidating for beginners; there’s so much information out there, and a lot of it is overly technical.

But here’s the truth: you don’t need to be a soil scientist to grow a thriving garden. You just need a few gentle, reliable principles.

Let’s keep this simple, grounded, and doable.

🌿 What Plants Actually Need (The Simple Version)

Plants need:

• light

• water

• air

• nutrients

• space

That’s it.

When you understand these basics, you can troubleshoot almost anything.

🌱 Soil Mixes Made Simple

For containers

Use a high‑quality potting mix, not garden soil. Potting mix is:

• light

• fluffy

• well‑draining

• perfect for roots in small spaces

For raised beds

A simple, reliable blend:

• 1 part compost

• 1 part topsoil

• 1 part sand

For domes

Either mix works beautifully, but I do suggest a homemade mix due to the volume you’ll need, especially for larger domes.

What you don’t need yet

• pH testing

• soil chemistry

• complicated amendments

• expensive fertilizers

We’re keeping this simple.

🌱 Compost & Amendments

Compost is your garden’s multivitamin. It improves:

• structure

• drainage

• nutrient availability

• microbial life

Start with bagged compost if you’re new. Homemade can come later.

Optional gentle amendments:

• worm castings

• a slow‑release organic fertilizer

• sand or perlite for drainage (I’m partial to sand)

That’s all you need for now.

💧 Watering Without Overthinking

Watering is where many beginners struggle, but it doesn’t have to be complicated.

The Finger Test

Stick your finger into the soil up to your first knuckle.

• Dry? Water.

• Moist? Wait a day and check again.

• Wet? Definitely wait at least a couple days, then check again.

General rhythm

• containers dry out faster

• raised beds hold moisture longer

• domes retain humidity

Reflection prompt:

What watering rhythm feels doable for your lifestyle?

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🌱 A Universal Potting Blend You Can Mix Today

If you want a simple, all‑purpose mix:

• 1 part topsoil

• 1 part compost

• 1 part sand or perlite (perlite is better for containers)

This works for herbs, greens, flowers, and many fruiting plants.

🌙 Closing Thought

Soil is where the quiet work happens. When you build a healthy foundation, your plants reward you with resilience, growth, and beauty.

In our next lesson, we’ll choose your first plants — the ones that will give you early wins and confidence.

— Diane 🌿

What type of soil are you planning on using? Let me know below.

Leave a comment

🌿 Why Go Paid?

A gentle invitation to deepen your gardening journey

If you’ve been enjoying the calm, practical rhythm of Home and Dome Gardening, becoming a paid subscriber is the best way to support this work — and unlock a whole world of extra goodness.

Paid subscribers receive:

• full access to all courses, including the complete A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF

• bonus worksheets, checklists, and printables to make gardening feel simple and doable

• Dome Diaries + behind‑the‑scenes notes from my own garden

• seasonal planning guides for small spaces and domes

• a quiet, supportive community where you can ask questions and share your wins

Your support helps me create thoughtful, gentle gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow. If this space has brought you clarity, calm, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid subscriber.

Let’s keep growing together — one small, intentional step at a time. 🌱

Subscribe now

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honored to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

Before we plant anything, we’re going to slow down and learn to see your space the way plants do. Most new gardeners rush to the “doing,” but the most successful gardeners, especially in small spaces, begin with noticing.

This lesson is about observation, curiosity, and discovering the quiet patterns already happening around you.

Take a moment to look around your home, balcony, yard, or dome. You’re about to see it with new eyes.

🌞 Lesson 1: Understanding Light (Your Garden’s Most Important Ingredient)

Light determines what you can grow: more than soil, more than water, more than anything else.

But you don’t need apps or gadgets. You just need your eyes.

Over the next day or two, check your space at:

• morning

• midday

• late afternoon

• early evening

Notice:

• where the sun lands

• how long it stays

• where shadows fall

• which areas stay bright even on cloudy days

Simple light categories

• Full sun: 6+ hours

• Partial sun: 3–6 hours

• Shade: less than 3 hours

Most food crops want full sun. Many herbs and greens thrive in partial sun. Shade is perfect for ferns, hostas, and beauty plants.

Reflection prompt:

Write down the light conditions in each area you might garden in.

Little note on light:

When I was planning where to put my dome I was set on where my little greenhouse had been: an area of my yard that got full sun all day…in the summer.

The more I thought about it the more I realized that was not a good space for the dome considering I want to utilize it year-round. I ended up picking a new spot, and I’m thankful that I realized that the sun wouldn’t reach more than the very top of the dome all winter.

Had I gone with the initial spot I would’ve been not only adding heat to the dome, but light as well: and that is not why I invested in it. I invested in it to harness the energy of the sun during even the coldest days, while growing food and providing a cozy, warm place to hang out.

🍃 Lesson 2: Microclimates (Your Space Has Secrets)

Even tiny spaces have microclimates: little pockets where conditions differ. It’s like walking along a path and noticing a change in temperature for a brief moment.

Look for:

• warm spots near walls or fences

• cooler areas shaded by buildings or trees

• wind tunnels between structures

• sheltered corners where heat collects

• spots that stay damp longer

• places that dry out quickly

If you have a dome, this becomes even more interesting. Domes trap heat, block wind, and create a cozy, stable environment plants adore. However, it’ll be up to you to control the elements here, because hot air needs to be moved around too.

Reflection prompt:

List two or three microclimates you notice in your space.

🌱 Lesson 3: Soil Basics (Only What You Actually Need to Know)

If you’re gardening in containers or raised beds, you’re not dealing with native soil; you’re creating your own. That means you can skip the intimidating soil science.

For containers

Use a high‑quality potting mix, not garden soil. Potting mix is:

• light

• airy

• well‑draining

• perfect for roots

For raised beds

Use a simple blend:

• compost

• topsoil

• sand or coconut coir

For domes

Either mix works beautifully, but I do suggest a mix of equal parts, topsoil, sand, and compost.

What you don’t need yet

• pH tests

• soil chemistry

• fancy fertilizers

• complicated amendments

We’ll keep it simple.

🪴 Lesson 4: Choosing Containers or Beds

You don’t need matching pots or expensive raised beds. Start with what feels manageable.

Containers

Look for:

• drainage holes (this is important)

• a size that fits your plant

• materials you like (plastic, ceramic, fabric, and wood are all fine)

Raised beds

Consider:

• height (12–18 inches is ideal)

• material (wood, metal, composite)

• accessibility

• sun exposure

Domes

Think about:

• where the dome gets the most light

• airflow

• how you’ll water inside

• whether you want containers, beds, or both

Reflection prompt:

Which growing method feels most natural for your space right now?

🗺️ Lesson 5: Create a Simple Garden Map

This is not an art project. It’s a clarity project.

Sketch:

• your space

• where the sun hits

• where shade falls

• where containers or beds might go

• microclimates

• your water source

This map becomes your guide for the rest of the course.

🌙 Closing Thought

You don’t need the perfect space — you just need to understand the one you have. Plants are adaptable. Gardeners are too. By observing first, you’re already gardening with wisdom and intention.

Next up: Module 3 — Soil & Plant Foundations, where we start building the living environment your plants will call home.

— Diane 🌿

What type of light does your garden/yard/balcony get? Let me know in the comments.

Leave a comment

🌿 Why Go Paid?

A gentle invitation to deepen your gardening journey

If you’ve been enjoying the calm, practical rhythm of Home and Dome Gardening, becoming a paid subscriber is the best way to support this work — and unlock a whole world of extra goodness.

Paid subscribers receive:

• full access to all courses, including the complete A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF

• bonus worksheets, checklists, and printables to make gardening feel simple and doable

• Dome Diaries + behind‑the‑scenes notes from my own garden

• seasonal planning guides for small spaces and domes

• a quiet, supportive community where you can ask questions and share your wins

Your support helps me create thoughtful, gentle gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow. If this space has brought you clarity, calm, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid subscriber.

Let’s keep growing together — one small, intentional step at a time. 🌱

Subscribe now

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honored to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

— Diane 🌿

Before we touch soil or choose a single seed, I want to invite you into a slower beginning: one rooted in intention rather than urgency. Gardening isn’t a race or a performance. It’s a relationship. And like any relationship, it grows best when you start by understanding what you want from it and what you’re ready to give.

Take a breath. Let your shoulders drop. This is the start of something gentle.

One more thing before we start: you may want to get a 3-ring binder, as there are worksheets that will be included in some of the lessons. It’s not necessary but it will be helpful as you make your way through the course. It’ll also be a good place to keep your observations and notes as you continue your gardening journey.

🌿 Why Garden? (Your “Why” Shapes Everything)

People garden for all kinds of reasons:

• to grow food that’s nourishing and organic

• to create beauty in a small or imperfect space

• to reconnect with nature after a life transition

• to feel grounded, calm, or purposeful

• to rediscover creativity

• to simply try something new

Your reason doesn’t need to be profound. It just needs to be yours.

Reflection prompt:
What draws you to gardening right now? Write it down in a sentence or two.

This becomes your compass. When you feel overwhelmed later (and every gardener does), you’ll return to this intention.

🌼 Gardening in Small or Unusual Spaces

You don’t need to have acres and acres of land, or even a yard to grow a garden.

Gardening thrives in:

• balconies

• patios

• decks

• small yards

• raised beds

• containers

• indoor grow domes

• sunny windowsills

Small‑space gardening is not “less than.” It’s focused, manageable, and deeply rewarding. You learn to grow smarter, not bigger; and that’s a gift.

🌱 A Gentle Introduction to Your Options

Here are the three approaches we’ll weave through this course:

1. Container Gardening

Flexible, forgiving, and perfect for patios, balconies, and renters. It allows for movement of containers to make maximum use of the sunshine you have, and to protect your plants should a storm arrive.

2. Raised Bed Gardening

A tidy, structured option for small yards or anyone wanting a defined growing space. Depending on your space, you can have 4’x4’ beds or larger. With the use of trellises you can grow a lot of fresh produce in 16 square feet.

3. Dome Gardening

A cozy, season‑extending microclimate; wonderful for cold climates and curious gardeners. This is my first year of gardening in a dome, so it’s going to be an interesting project. I know I have a lot to learn, so I’ll be there right along with you.

You don’t need to choose one today. Just notice which one sparks a little excitement.

🌿 What Kind of Gardener Are You Right Now?

Not the gardener you hope to be someday — the gardener you are today.

Are you:

• a curious beginner

• a returning gardener rebuilding confidence

• someone craving calm and routine

• a practical grower who wants herbs and greens

• a dreamer who wants beauty and color

There’s no wrong answer. This course meets you exactly where you are.

Reflection prompt:

Write a short description of the gardener you are today. Keep it honest and kind.

🌸 Your First Gentle Win

Before we close this lesson, choose one small, achievable goal for this course. You don’t want to overwhelm yourself before you get started, because that will take the fun out of it.

Examples:

• grow one pot of herbs

• plant a container of salad greens

• start a single raised bed

• grow one dome‑friendly plant

• keep a simple garden journal

• learn to water confidently

Reflection prompt:

What is your “one gentle win” for this course?

This becomes your anchor. Everything else is optional.

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🌙 Closing Thought

Gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about presence. You’re not behind. You’re not late. You’re right on time.

In our next lesson, we’ll begin observing your space with curiosity instead of pressure; a skill that will shape everything you grow.

I can’t wait to continue with you.

— Diane 🌿

Feel free to answer one or both reflection prompts in the comments below. I’d like to see where you’re at in your gardening journey.

Leave a comment

🌿 Why Go Paid?

A gentle invitation to deepen your gardening journey

If you’ve been enjoying the cozy, calm, practical rhythm of Home and Dome Gardening, becoming a paid subscriber is the best way to support this work; and unlock a whole world of extra goodness.

Paid subscribers receive:

• full access to all courses, including the complete A Gentle Start to Gardening PDF

• bonus worksheets, checklists, and printables to make gardening feel simple and doable

• Dome Diaries + behind‑the‑scenes notes from my own garden

• seasonal planning guides for small spaces and domes

• a quiet, supportive community where you can ask questions and share your wins

Your support helps me create thoughtful, gentle gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow. If this space has brought you clarity, calm, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honoured to have you join me as a paid subscriber.

Let’s keep growing together — one small, intentional step at a time. 🌱

Subscribe now

Your Support Means Everything

When you become a paid subscriber, you’re not just unlocking extra content — you’re helping me continue creating thoughtful, accessible gardening resources for everyone who needs a softer way to grow.

If this space has brought you calm, clarity, or a sense of possibility, I’d be honored to have you join me as a paid supporter.

Let’s keep growing together — gently, season by season.

— Diane 🌿

Whether you’re working with a balcony, a patio, a small yard, a raised bed, or a cozy grow dome, you can grow something beautiful. And you don’t need fancy tools, complicated charts, or a big budget to begin. (Well, if going the dome route, the budget is considerably higher…just sayin’.)

You just need curiosity, a bit of intention, and a willingness to start small.

🌱 What This Mini Course Will Teach You

Over eight short lessons, you’ll learn:

• how to understand your space (even if it’s tiny or unusual)

• how to choose soil and plants that set you up for success

• how to plant with confidence

• how to care for your garden without overwhelm

• how to harvest and enjoy what you grow

• how to build a gardening rhythm that feels sustainable

Each lesson is written to be gentle, practical, and beginner‑friendly — the kind of guidance I wish I’d had when I first started gardening in small spaces.

🌿 Who This Course Is For

This course is perfect for you if:

• you’re new to gardening

• you’re returning after a long break

• you want a slower, more mindful approach

• you’re gardening in containers, raised beds, or a dome

• you want to grow food, herbs, or beauty in a small space

• you want to feel supported, not overwhelmed

If you’ve ever thought, “I want to garden, but I don’t know where to start,” you’re in the right place.

🌸 How the Course Works

I’ll publish one lesson at a time here on Substack. The lessons here will be for everyone, and there will be a PDF available (see below) at the end of the course (links will be provided in the course wrap-up post) that will include the lessons and the worksheets.

Paid subscribers will receive a FREE downloadable PDF of the full course — something you can print, save, or keep in your gardening binder.

Free subscribers/browsers can purchase the PDF and worksheets in my Ko-fi Shop.

If you’d like to follow along in real time, make sure you’re subscribed so you don’t miss a lesson.

Subscribe now

(My usual publishing schedule is one or two posts/week, but as this is designed to get you started soon, I’ll be publishing one post per day until the end of the course.)

🌱 Your First Step: Just Arrive

You don’t need to buy anything yet.
You don’t need to plan anything yet.
You don’t need to know anything yet.

Just arrive.

Let this be a gentle beginning.

Our first lesson — Module 1: Beginning with Intention — will be up next.

I can’t wait to grow with you.

— Diane 🌿

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If you don’t remember, don’t feel bad. You can’t be expected to remember it all. That’s why it’s a good idea to keep a gardening journal from year to year.

I don’t recall my grandparents having a journal, but that doesn’t mean they didn’t. Mind you, life was a lot simpler then, at least in terms of what they had to remember. They worked a lot harder than most people do now, and that was even in retirement. But they grew the most amazing garden and preserved everything that wasn’t used immediately.

I designed a garden journal last year as I was preparing for my best year ever. As I was creating it, I thought about all of the different aspects of gardening; from sowing seeds to selling the harvest.

I honestly didn’t think it was such an involved process to document, until I started thinking about all of the aspects it entails. I learned that there’s more to it than just saying “I bought some seeds and planted them.”

Needless to say, with my brainstorming, then refining, I came up with a lot of things a gardener should track (as it applies to individual circumstances). Not all sections will be pertinent to everyone, however. I do think most gardeners will choose to fill in the majority of the pages though.

Get your garden journal.

What you should keep track of.

I did, however, miss one of the most important things we should all document. The weather.

I didn’t think of it as part of my garden journal, most likely because it’s something I track daily in my personal journal. As I was changing links in my master copy, I realized weather was nowhere in the equation. I added it right then and there.

It’s important to keep track of weather, especially when gardening in a cold climate. Knowing the last and first frost dates in the spring and fall will help save a lot of heartache, not to mention time and expense if you have to replace frozen plants.

Gardening is completely dependent on the weather, unless you have the means to provide a controlled environment for it. And even then, what happens with the yellow circle in the sky can still wreak havoc.

Keeping track of high and low temperatures, weather conditions, and precipitation will help you in your gardening journey from year to year.

You’ll want to make sure you know which seasonal tasks need to be done. Making a list of what needs to be done will keep you on track, and you won’t forget any of them. Think about gradually clearing the straw away from your strawberry plants in the spring, letting them warm gently with the sun.

It’s also beneficial to keep track of your seed inventory. This will prevent you from buying seeds you don’t need, as well as finding you don’t have what you wanted when planting day comes. I’ve done that very thing in the past, so last year I bought some photo storage totes with containers and had my seeds separated. I know I won’t need to buy any beans or arugula, because I have a lot of those seeds.

The next thing you want to keep track of is your fertilizer/compost inventory. It’s not as easy as documenting your seeds, but as long as you have a general idea of how much you have, you’ll do just fine. As you gain gardening experience, you’ll have a pretty good idea of how much you have just by looking at the (compost) pile.

Knowing what you have for garden tools/equipment is another plus. It’s easy enough to know you have one rototiller (which you shouldn’t need if gardening in raised beds), but you may not realize you have 5 garden rakes. What can I say? It happens.

Garden planning is a big (and fun) thing to do, even before the snow is gone. For those that live in climates without snow, you’ll still have a rainy season, which is a good time to plan for warmer, drier days.

The planning will include everything from your plant wishlist to figuring out what to plant where. (There are some planning pages for 4’ x 4’ gardens, as well as 4’ x 8’ gardens.) And if you’re a dome owner, there’s even some planning pages for you.

I didn’t think of it until just now as I’ve been writing: if you would prefer a circular garden, you can utilize the dome layouts as well. That very thought is giving me ideas for my garden revamp this summer.

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Plant and soil care are not to be taken lightly. Without healthy soil, your plants won’t be healthy either. Knowing what your soil is like and keeping it amended for optimal performance is beneficial.

From keeping track of the seeds you’ve sown to watering, crop rotation, pests and diseases, to the status of your soil. They’re all connected to maintain a healthy balance so you can have a healthy crop and harvest.

A gardening budget will help keep you on track. It’s very easy to spend a few dollars on seeds here, buy a new gardening tool there…and before you know it you’ve spent a small fortune.

If you’re planning on making gardening your business, the expense and revenue pages will come in handy. If not, you can use them for other ventures you have, or omit them from your initial print.

After all of the care and time you put in, it’s time to keep track of your harvest. It’s interesting to know how much was produced, even if you’re not selling to others. By knowing what you harvested, and comparing it to the grocery store pricing, you’ll be able to see how much you saved at the grocery store through the seasons.

Even if you haven’t ‘broken even’, you’ll still have reaped the benefits of eating healthier and exercising (and gardening can be a workout, especially when setting it up). Plus, the stress reduction when enjoying the birds, bees, and the smell of fresh flowers and herbs is more than worth it.

Having a seasonal plant log and plant profile will let you know what’s been planted, and all the details about each plant. As time goes on you’ll be able to recognize the plants without comparing them to a picture. Plus you’ll get better at knowing which plants thrive in different parts of your garden.

And last but not least, there are pages for taking notes. I suggest, and encourage you to take notes, from seed sowing right to beyond the harvest.

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Records for future generations

Your garden journal will not only help you through the seasons, but it will also be a record you can pass on to younger generations. I wish my grandparents had kept a journal so that I could have learned more about how they made everything grow so well.

Don’t keep all your “secrets”. Share them with others so their gardens can become healthy, happy, cozy spaces to enjoy. Gardening brings generations together now as it did when I was a little girl. My grandparents taught me about gardening as time and health allowed (neither had much of either), and I am teaching my grandchildren whatever I can that’s age-appropriate for them. I truly wish I’m around long enough to teach my great-grandchildren about gardening as well.

Track the patterns.

Another reason to keep a garden journal is to track the patterns. As the years go on you’ll be able to look back through the pages to see weather patterns, which years had more pests, and which years produced bumper crops. Having a record of everything will help you better manage your soil, let you know what people buy most often (if gardening on a commercial basis, whether it’s bedding plants or produce), and teach the younger generations that gardening is not only good for them, but a way of life.

That’s the dirt.

This post is designated to the garden journal I have in my Ko-fi Shop. I encourage you to purchase your copy so you can record (or add to) your gardening experience. There’s nothing to be lost by taking notes and keeping track of all the seeds you’ve sown, lessons learned, and harvests eaten.

When you purchase the journal you’ll have 2 sizes available to print: 5.5” x 7.5” or letter (8.5” x 11”). There are enough pages for 3 months (one quarter) worth of record-keeping/documenting. When you’ve filled those pages, print off another set.

You may use this as many times as you wish for personal use. If you have a friend or family member that would like a journal of their own, please send them my way. It takes time to create a product as extensive as this one, not to mention the paper and ink.

Thanks for being here, and sticking it out to the end. To get your copy of the garden journal, click on the button below. And a final note on what I learned: creating a product such as this is more time-consuming than planting an entire garden.

Garden Journal

If you’d like to support my work but don’t want a copy of the journal, you can always buy me a coffee. It’s what fuels my brain and body whether I’m writing, gardening, or creating digital (and soon to be physical) products. Click the link below to keep me fueled up.

Buy me a coffee

Have you used a journal for your garden? Let me know in the comments.

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It’s when the snow melts and everything starts turning green.

As a gardener, however, you can get a jump on spring and start your own seeds. That way you’ll be ready when the soil warms up, and you can plant the seedlings you started in your garden. Not only is it cheaper than buying everything from the local nursery, but there’s also a sense of accomplishment and pride. And everyone needs to feel proud of their accomplishments.

This post is going to dive into how to start your own seeds so you’re ready for spring. Don’t worry if you’re reading this at another time of the year, because the steps are the same no matter what zone you garden in. If you have a dome or live in a mild climate, you’ll be able to utilize the information year round.

I talk about the 3 main types of seed starting materials, but you can also use recyclable materials from around your home as well. I have added a couple of ideas at the end of the 5 steps to give you a start.

The Process in 5 Steps

Step 1: Pick your seeds.

• Choose seeds that will grow in your climate for the best results.

• It’s heartbreaking to watch a plant grow to almost maturity, then have a frost wipe it out. By choosing seeds that match your growing zone you’ll have a higher success rate.

• Think about what you like to eat, then check the growing instructions for frost dates.

• Last summer (2025) I planted pumpkins out later than I should have. An early frost wiped out the 4 that were almost the size of a cantaloupe.

Step 2: Get your seed starting mix ready.

• The seed starting mix is what you’ll be planting your seeds in. It doesn’t have to be a purchased mix, but you also don’t want it to be regular garden soil either.

• Starting seeds in a light mix will give you better results. If there’s plenty of airflow through the mix you’ll have less problems with damping off (seeds starting out fine, then flopping over because the stem has rotted).

• An ideal seed starting mix is coco coir with a bit of worm castings mixed in. Since seeds have all they need to grow past the first true leaf stage, you don’t need a mix that’s full of fertilizers.

• I’ve made the mistake of using regular potting soil to start my seeds in the past, and it retained too much moisture, thus resulting in damping off.

  Home and Dome Gardening is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

Step 3: Seed trays, cell packs, or soil blocks?

• All of the above can be used for seed starting. If you’re a beginner I suggest the cell packs, as they hold the soil in place and are easy to handle.

• Some plants are more sensitive than others when it comes time to transplant. Seed trays will have the most amount of root disturbance, cell packs will have some root disturbance, and soil blocks should have minimal root disturbance, if any.

• Lightly pack your moistened seed starting mix into your trays or cell packs and add your seeds, sowing lightly. Put a light layer of mix on top and gently press down to bind the seeds to the soil. If using soil blocks you’ll need to add more water to the mix and pack your soil blocker until excess water runs out, then place the blocks into trays. Add the seeds to the middle of the block (check seed package for depth and spacing), then add some soil to cover the seeds.

• I haven’t used seed trays since I worked in the greenhouse in my early 20s. They did work well and were great when hundreds of seeds of one kind needed to be started. We overseeded because there were always losses due to transplant shock. My usual go-to is cell packs, but this year I have invested in a soil blocker. I haven’t tried it out as of writing, but will add my two bits in either a comment on this post or in another post once I’ve had some experience with it.

Step 4: Watering your seeds.

• All seeds need water, and you want to make sure you’re giving yours the right amount.

• Watering too much can cause your seeds to rot in the soil, and watering too little will cause your seeds to dry up and not germinate.

• The best method to water seeds and seedlings is from the bottom. That way you’ll encourage the roots to reach for the water, thus resulting in a healthier root system. Plus by watering from the bottom you won’t wash your seeds away.

• I have to admit, I don’t always practice what I preach when it comes to watering. I accidentally washed seeds away because I was in a rush and decided to top-water. From one gardener to another: don’t do that.

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Step 5: Air circulation.

• Air circulation is the movement around seeds and plants. When in the soil you may not think they get it, but it’s important that they do.

• Everything needs air, including seeds. Without it your seeds will have a low germination rate, and your seedlings will develop weak stems as they grow. Air movement is required as the seeds emerge from the soil to ensure strong stems and roots.

• To ensure adequate air circulation among seedlings, place an oscillating fan so there’s air movement, but not so close or high speed to bend the seedling over in the soil.

• When I worked in the greenhouse we always had fans running. The air movement kept a lot of the pests at bay, and kept the plants healthy. My first summer (2023) with my little (10’ x 10’) greenhouse I made the mistake of thinking the air moving through the window and door was enough, as it felt quite breezy to me. It wasn’t, which resulted in weaker plants and some spider mite infestations.

Starting your own seeds doesn’t have to be daunting, nor does it have to involve the purchase of specialized materials. Egg cartons filled with soil make great seed trays, and they’ll decompose as the plants grow: no root disturbance necessary. Just cut them apart and place the egg cup in the garden where you want your plants to grow.

This Week’s Featured Plants

From cool weather crops to the heat loving ones, you’ll learn about what makes them grow well. The ones you can eat and the ones that are just for show. Wait! They’re all edible this week!

Vegetable: Lettuce

Growing Snapshot

Sun: Prefers gentle morning sun or bright partial shade, especially as temperatures rise.

Soil: Loose, cool, and consistently moist; rich in organic matter.

Water: Steady, even moisture. Never let it fully dry out.

Spacing: 6–10”, depending on variety. You can plant closer for a cut‑and‑come‑again crop.

Season: Cool‑season crop. It’s happiest in spring and fall.

Pests: Aphids, slugs, and leaf miners; floating row covers help early on. Slugs will find their way under the row covers so place slug traps in your garden. Encouraging the birds to hang out in your garden is also great pest control.

Harvest: Snip outer leaves anytime once they reach usable size, or harvest whole heads when full and firm.

Helpful Tip

Keep lettuce cool and evenly moist, as letting it dry out will give it a bitter taste. It will also bolt if it gets too hot. I do suggest allowing one plant of each variety you grow to bolt so you can save seeds for the following season.

Fun Fact

Lettuce varieties aren’t limited to just a few. Now gardeners can get seeds for a variety of both head and leaf lettuces, with green no longer being the only colour.

How I Use It

I like to use fresh lettuce on sandwiches and in salads. I prefer the leafy types to head lettuce, and making a salad from a variety adds colour and texture. I’ll mix lettuce, radishes, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, olive oil, and feta cheese for a healthy lunch. (Check out my recipe below.)

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Fruit: Watermelon

Growing Snapshot

Sun: At least 6–8 hours daily of full, unfiltered sun.

Soil: Warm, sandy‑loam soil with excellent drainage.

Water: Deep, infrequent watering; reduce slightly once fruits begin to ripen.

Spacing: 3–4 feet between plants; vines need room to roam.

Season: A warm‑season crop that thrives in long, hot summers (8-10 weeks of heat). Growing watermelon in cold climates is doable, but the best success rates come with short-season varieties..

Pests: Cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and aphids; mulch helps reduce stress.

Harvest: Ready when the tendril nearest the fruit turns brown and the underside yellows.

Helpful Tip

Watermelon may be grown on a strong trellis to increase your growing space. The tendrils of the plant will cling to the trellis and the stem and vine will strengthen as the fruit grows. Unless you’re growing giant watermelons, you shouldn’t need any extra support for the fruit.

If you’re concerned about the fruit being too heavy and needing extra support, an idea is to slip it into a nylon stocking tied to the trellis, or make a fruit hammock out of yarn or fabric and secure it to the trellis.

Fun Fact

Funny story: In about 2008 or 2009 (I don’t recall which year it was now) I made some raised beds in our yard. I had a few beds that were 4’ x 4’, and a few that were 2’ x 8’. I was so excited to have a watermelon plant that I had started from seed, so I planted it in one end of a 2’ x 8’ bed so the vines could spill over onto the grass. I planted a zucchini at the other end of the same bed, and was thrilled when my watermelon plant started growing fruit.

I babied that plant and was so excited because it was growing well. When it came time to harvest it, there was a surprise neither my late husband nor I was expecting. It was shaped like a watermelon, looked like a watermelon, but when we cut it open it wasn’t red inside. It was white…and tasted like a zucchini!

Unbeknownst to me, the two plants should not have been placed so close together. It turns out they cross-pollinated and instead of me getting zucchini and watermelon, all I got was two shapes of zucchini.

How I Use It

Fresh from the vine is the best, and sweetest. I generally buy at least one watermelon each summer, but the flavour is often not as sweet as what I remember as a kid. Some crops can be grown using hydroponics and quick varieties, but watermelon, in my opinion, is one that should be grown in a garden and left to ripen on the vine. (They don’t continue to ripen once picked, which is often why we don’t get the juicy, sweet ones in the store.)

I’m looking forward to growing my own this summer, and they will be planted as far away from the zucchini as possible. I did start a few plants last spring (2025) but they didn’t get set out into the garden in time. I don’t think they would’ve done well anyway, because we had a colder-than-usual summer (most likely attributed to the wildfire smoke we had most of the summer).

Herb: Parsley

Growing Snapshot

Sun: Full sun to light shade; tolerates a range of conditions.

Soil: Moist, fertile soil with good drainage.

Water: Regular, even watering as it doesn’t like drying out. If planting in containers be sure to water once daily, or more if the container is small and it’s hot out.

Spacing: 8–10” between plants, but it will tolerate closer quarters, even if planted with other herbs.

Season: Cool‑loving biennial grown as an annual that thrives spring through fall.

Pests: Swallowtail caterpillars (a welcome visitor for many gardeners), aphids.

Harvest: Snip outer stems at the base once stems with 3 leaf segments. Prime harvesting time is mid-morning after the dew has evaporated but before the heat of the day sets in.

Helpful Tip

Dry parsley by dipping sprigs in boiling water for 2 minutes. (Use a colander to make it easy to take them out of the boiling water.) Bake the parsley sprigs in a low-temperature oven until crisp, but not toasted. Cool and crush, then place in an airtight container for later use.

Fun Fact

Not only is it an attractive leafy herb, it’s also a great breath freshener because of its high chlorophyll content.

How I Use It

I like to eat it fresh from the plant, and will do so often. I use my dehydrator to preserve the harvest for use during the winter months, adding it to meats and stews.

Flower: Sunflower

Growing Snapshot

Sun: Full sun. The more, the better.

Soil: Well‑drained soil. It tolerates poorer soils and may not grow as big, but thrives with compost.

Water: Deep watering to encourage strong taproots. Keep the soil moist during early growth to encourage a healthy flower that’s filled with seeds.

Spacing: 12–18 inches for standard varieties; closer for smaller types.

Season: Warm‑season annual best direct-seeded into the garden. If you want to get a jump on the season you can buy young plants at a garden centre (or start your own in single cells/soil blocks). Plant after frost danger has passed, being careful not to disturb their roots.

Pests: Birds, squirrels, and occasionally aphids.

Harvest: For blooms, cut when petals just begin to unfurl; for seeds, wait until heads droop and backs turn yellow. The petals may also be eaten, as can the buds. If growing for the buds and blooms, plant multi-stemmed varieties. The single-stemmed varieties are better for the seeds, but don’t harvest petals from the ones you’re growing for the seeds. Tie mature sunflower heads in an area with good air circulation to prevent decay (such as the rafters or beams in a garage).

Helpful Tip

Staking sunflowers in windy areas will keep them from falling over. To prevent the birds from helping themselves to your mature sunflowers, tie a paper bag over them until you can harvest them.

Fun Fact

Sunflowers come in a variety of colours, which are often grown for the cut-flower industry. They’re not limited to the yellows we picture when we think of sunflowers. Add colours like purples, reds, whites, and golds for a breathtaking garden and vase full of fresh-cut flowers.

How I Use It

I’m not one much for eating sunflower seeds from the shell, but I do enjoy them in salads, trail mixes, and by themselves. I planted some sunflowers last summer (2025) in growing bags on my deck, and tied them to the railing to keep them from blowing over. They weren’t very tall (maybe 4’) but the birds enjoyed the seeds once winter came.

Recipe Time

Lettuce Salad

You’ll need:

4 c. fresh lettuce leaves - washed

4 radishes - stems and root ends removed

¼ c. sunflower seeds

¼ c. pumpkin seeds

½ c. feta cheese

1 oz. garlic or dill-infused olive oil (or plain if you prefer)

Directions:

1. Tear the lettuce into pieces and put into a 1 litre bowl

2. Thinly slice the radishes and add to the lettuce.

3. Add the seeds and cheese, then mix with a wooden spoon (my preference).

4. Add the olive oil and mix well.

5. Serve with a sandwich or eat as is for a light lunch.

This recipe makes approximately 1-2 servings.

This recipe can also easily be multiplied, and is best eaten freshly made. It can be kept in the fridge overnight if you prefer to serve it chilled.

That’s the dirt this week.

Starting your own seeds shouldn’t feel intimidating. It’s much more cost-effective than buying everything at the local garden centre, and you get to choose the varieties you want.

I’ll support local greenhouses when they have plants I want but didn’t start, due to unavailability of the seed or the germination time. Sometimes I lose a crop or two due to unforeseen circumstances, so I’ll replace them with plants from the greenhouse for my own garden.

Pay attention to the frost dates on the packaging, but when it comes to seed spacing, you can plant closer. You’ll be able to separate the seedlings later when you’re transplanting into the garden (or pots if they’ve outgrown their seedling tray). With closer planting you’ll conserve water and reduce weeds.

What concerns you most about starting your own seeds? Let me know in the comments below.

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It was a big investment initially, but I know it will pay for itself within the first year. Or at least come close.

It has been a learning experience for me, and I haven’t even gotten to the growing-in-it part yet. That will begin later this month, or so I hope. The next few days will be busy with starting to dig out the pond area; probably the hardest part since the structure construction.

Today I’m going to shed some light on what I learned from the construction to where I’m at with it now, which is getting the inside functional. I learned a lot more than 3 things I’m sure, but I’m listing the top 3 here.

The first edition of Dome Diaries will be included; a regular part of the Thursday (1st and 3rd Thursday of the month) posts. This is where I’ll share what’s been happening in the dome, whether it’s good or bad, or somewhere in between.

Now for the “education” I have had since getting my dome.

Lesson #1

Don’t be in a hurry.

I wanted the dome delivered, set up, and functional by the time summer ended. Well, the joke was on me because the only thing that happened was the delivery, and that was in early May.

What I learned from it not progressing the way I expected to was this: good things take time. Had I rushed the construction, chances are I would’ve had to move the entire structure in order for it to get the sun it needs.

My initial spot chosen was where my little greenhouse sat; about 50’ from the house on the north side. The low winter sun wouldn’t have reached the dome, as I realized as the winter went on.

Plus, the initial spot would’ve had the dome sitting on the lines that run to my septic pump out. That in itself would’ve been bad if I ever had to replace any lines.

The part that made me think about the lines was when I was visualizing the inside. My plan is to put in 4” x 4” posts for the grape trellis, which will be held in place with 3’ post anchors. I realized that there was a good chance of hitting one line or another as I pounded them into the ground, so I changed the dome location basically at the last minute.

Lesson #2

Each stage of construction takes time.

In my brain, the entire structure was up and running in two weeks. In reality, it took over two weeks for the gravel ring and foundation to be set in place, not to mention the rest of it being finished.

I had not accounted for the availability of help, even though I thought I could do the majority of it on my own. My body reminded me I’m not 20 any more and I just don’t have the strength to do all of what I thought I could.

Overall, it took almost 3 months from the start of laying the gravel ring to the final panels being put above the door. I had a hand in every phase of construction, even when others were helping. Not once did I watch from the sidelines. It was my project so I had to be out there doing as much as I could.

Let me just say that there was no one happier than me when I put in the last screw to hold the last polycarbonate panel in place…on a cold and snowy day at the end of November.

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Lesson #3

Plan ahead.

This refers to where the gravel, soil, and sand will be dumped for a project of this magnitude.

I had the truck come in and dump everything on the north half of my acreage, when I should have had it all dumped on the south half. The change in location of the dome meant that everything I needed was no longer convenient.

That was all on me. If I hadn’t been so set on the dome sitting where the greenhouse had been, I would’ve most likely realized the location wasn’t feasible much sooner. I’m sure my dad was looking down on me and just shaking his head. He always said, “If there’s a hard way to do something, Diane will find it.” It used to annoy me, but as I look back I see he was 100% right. He knew me better than I knew myself.

What’s next?

The next stage is the setting up of the above-ground pond. It’s going to have to be dug down at least 6”; perhaps as many as 12”. I’m going to have to measure the final height because I’m 5’4”, and I don’t want to not be able to reach the middle of the pond.

The pond is going to be the thermal mass that will keep the temperature more regulated inside the dome. Right now the interior heats up to well above freezing during the day, but dips down again during the night. The dipping keeps the ground frozen so digging down will be a challenge. Running an electric heater is not feasible, nor is it safe at this point in time.

I have the straw bales set up for my perimeter beds and the keyhole beds in the center, and any heat source aside from what the sun provides is risky. Once the walls are built for the perimeter beds and the straw is covered with a layer of soil I won’t be quite so paranoid.

Dome Diaries

The Dome Diaries will be in each post for all subscribers, published on the 1st and 3rd Thursday of the month. I can’t say what the entries will contain for sure, but I do anticipate some humour within. I’ll aim for what’s working, and what’s not working. But until I get to the fully functioning system, I’ll be sharing what I’ve done or experienced in the two weeks between posts.

Feb 26

While moving a couple things around I realized I have an unwanted guest living in the dome. The discovery resulted in a pair of cotton gloves being thrown in the garbage, which leads me to my next little job: put everything that’s chewable in a plastic tote and snap the lid closed. At least until I figure out where she came in.

I found her nest when I moved a cement block out of the way; at the bottom of one of the straw bales. Needless to say, there are two traps set (with peanut butter) to entice her to have a snack.

I don’t want rodents in my dome, so any that have found their way in need to be eradicated. I still don’t have all of the gravel in place, which probably made it easier for her to find a way in. And yes, she could have hitched a ride in on one of the bales, but I don’t think so. They’ve been in the dome for weeks and today is the first sign of mice that I have seen.

Knowing she was in there was bad enough, but having her scurrying around while I was putting up the first trellis was a little unnerving. The last thing I wanted was for her to crawl up the inside (or even outside) of my pant leg.

Mar 4

The unwanted guest has been caught, with no evidence of any others in the vicinity. At least not that I saw when I was out there on Monday. I still haven’t taken the tote out to stash everything, but that’ll be done by the weekend.

The latest blast of cold hasn’t made me want to be outside any longer than necessary, and when the dome is still in the freeze/thaw stage, it doesn’t make it enticing to go out there either. Today I saw it got up to just above freezing at one point, but it didn’t stay there for long. (Digital temperature sensors are a wonderful thing.) The sun wasn’t out so the dome didn’t heat up as much as it does on a sunny day.

I do like the fact there’s no windchill inside the dome though. I’m not a fan of the wind, so sitting in the dome is a nice reprieve from being out in the elements. Once the seams have all been sealed it will be even better, because the wind won’t be whistling through the gaps between panels.

The tape didn’t get applied because it was too cold when the structure was finally finished. The tape needs the ambient temperature to be at least 10°C, and that’s a temperature that just doesn’t happen in November in my part of the world.

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That’s the dirt this week.

When undertaking a project such as a dome, I suggest you have it all planned out ahead of time. Make notes, figure out the sun’s position throughout the year (yes, there’s an app for that), and be sure to not be building over top of any lines that run under the lawn.

If you’re going to need soil, sand, and gravel, be sure to have the truckloads dumped as close to your work site as possible. As it stands now, I’m hauling the gravel several hundred feet. Thankfully I have a side-by-side that I can move the gravel with, but it’s still a pain in the behind, because I’m shovelling it twice. Yes, I probably would still have had to do so, but it could’ve been shovelled into the wagon and pulled 20’ instead of the 200’ or so that it is now.

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Stay tuned for the next post on Thursday March 19, where I’ll have another entry in the Dome Diaries, as well as a feature article.

If you’ve taken on a building project, what was the most valuable lesson you learned? Let me know in the comments below.

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By using the method of planting that I do now I’m guaranteed a more productive garden with less weeds and better soil.

The Process in 5 Steps

It’s easy, repeatable, and ensures a healthy harvest every time. Plus, it works for gardens of all sizes.

I have to say though, I’m all about raised bed gardening. It’s so much easier on the back and knees, and is ideal for anyone with mobility issues.

You don’t have to have mobility issues to reap the benefits of raised bed gardening though. The height of your beds can be adjusted for your requirements which makes them a favourite way to garden.

My first raised beds were only 6”, and at the time they worked fine for me. I was younger and bending over to weed and harvest didn’t bother me. I was also giving square foot gardening a try, so I had my grid marked out in my beds with string. Mind you, there wasn’t a lot for weeding to be done, so that alone was a win.

Now that I’m older, my beds seem to get a little higher each growing season. Last year they were about 20” high, and the ones in my dome will be 24” high. I think 24” is a good height. (My front kitchen garden is getting a revamp this spring, so the beds will also be increased in height to 24”.)

A friend of mine has gardened in traditional plots for over 40 years, and battles the weeds and weather a little more each year. Her sister recently told her to give up her gardens and go to raised beds. I told her today she could utilize that space and her good soil, and produce more than what she does now. I think between the two of us we might have her at least willing to give it a try.

Raised beds are also child-friendly. My grandchildren can reach the strawberries, chives, peas, and other produce easily without trampling anything. They can easily pick what they want and I don’t have to worry about them walking over any of the plants.

Step 1: Start with good soil.

Your garden needs a healthy food source just as you do. By starting with healthy soil, you’re providing your garden with all it needs to grow the best produce it can. It won’t have to fight with pests or disease, resulting in higher yields.

The ultimate soil mix is ⅓ top soil, ⅓ sand, and ⅓ compost. Add in a few handfuls of worm castings and you’ll have the best mix for your garden. For the best mix, source your materials as locally as you can.

Depending on the size of your raised bed, you may want to fill the bottom of it with logs, branches, twigs, dry leaves, and grass clippings. This is known as Hugelkultur, and its purpose is to not only reduce the amount of soil you need to fill your beds, but to also help retain water and add nutrients to the soil as the materials break down. You will have to add more soil over time as the larger materials break down, but it will eliminate the need for a large soil purchase initially.

Step 2: Add healthy seedlings and plants.

The best way to ensure a healthy garden is to start with healthy plants and seeds. Check plants for signs of pests or disease before you plant them in your garden, especially if you’ve sourced them from big-box stores.

Although buying from local greenhouses and nurseries may seem more expensive, the chance of pests and diseases being introduced into your garden is lower. (That’s not to say it doesn’t happen, but at least they’re usually local pests.)

Before planting any of your newly acquired plants, take a few moments to remove any dead leaves, check for pests, then water well. By watering, you’ll reduce the stress plants tend to be under when they’re moved from their safe and secure pots to the larger space of a garden bed.

Plus, by removing any dead foliage and pests, your plants will have a healthier start, thus contributing to the overall health of your garden.

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Step 3: Plant close to conserve water.

By planting your seedlings and plants close to each other you’ll eliminate the risk of evaporation. Less evaporation means your plants are more hydrated, and the overall environment makes the plants less susceptible to pests like spider mites.

Traditional gardens dry out quickly during periods of heat and/or windy conditions. By condensing your planting, the soil is shaded by the foliage and the wind is reduced because of the close planting. By utilizing the close planting method you’ll have a healthier garden. The soil won’t dry out, and the earthworms will hang out closer to the top and feed on the vegetation that does fall into the soil.

If you do have areas of bare soil while you’re waiting for seeds to grow, add a layer of mulch to keep the soil from drying out. My personal favourite is fresh grass clippings (a light layer is sufficient) because they are readily available and can be worked into the soil to add nutrients.

Other mulches you can add are chopped straw, dry leaves, or shredded cardboard. These will conserve moisture and help suppress weeds, while feeding your plants as they break down and add nutrients to the soil.

Last summer I added a “green mulch” to one of my raised beds. What I did was tore leaves I had pruned from tomatoes and other plants into small pieces and scattered them around the plants. By doing so I created an environment that was good-bug friendly, and it kept the soil cool for some of the root crops. By the time the plants grew big enough to shade the soil, the green mulch had broken down and added nutrients to my garden.

When adding mulch (green or brown), be sure it’s pest and disease-free. It only takes a few minutes to check, and you can avoid a big disappointment if the pests or disease take over. Any vegetation that is infested or infected needs to be disposed of in a sealed garbage bag or burned in your backyard fire pit.

Step 4: Fill in the space between plants with seeds.

There’ll undoubtedly be some spaces between your bedding plants. To gain maximum use of your soil and space, plant seeds like radishes, lettuce, spinach, arugula, dill, beets, carrots, and other small plants that don’t transplant well.

By filling in the spaces, you’ll be able to maximize your harvest while conserving water, discouraging pests, and encouraging healthy growth. You can plant radishes and carrots in the same area, which will give you more bang for your buck. The radishes will be ready for harvest much sooner than the carrots, so you’ll be creating space for the carrots to grow as you harvest the radishes. It’s always a good idea to plant quicker growing crops with those that take a little longer, as you’ll be able to utilize every square inch of your garden space.

This will not only give you a lot of growing space, it will also help prevent evaporation, which in turn leads to less watering. And by needing to water less you can spend more time doing the things you enjoy, like reading a book on a bench in your garden, or entertaining family and friends. I know I don’t care to spend hours watering.

You’ll also be harvesting regularly throughout the growing season, so have seeds ready to plant when you harvest. For example, when you harvest cool-weather crops, plant seeds for those that like the heat, such as cucumbers, beans, Swiss chard, and butterhead lettuce (this one doesn’t mind the heat). It won’t take long for the seeds to germinate and you’ll be utilizing space that would otherwise be unused.

Step 5: Label your plants.

It’s easy to say, “I’ll remember what I planted there”. I hate to break it to you, but you won’t. Even the most seasoned gardener can’t remember where everything is planted, and when planting close like I do, it’s even harder. Not because my brain doesn’t remember, but because there’s such a variety it’s hard to remember.

When there’s a 4’ x 8’ bed full of plants, it’s hard to recall exactly where each was planted. The bedding plants are generally easy to identify, but when the seeds start coming up there are definitely going to be some “uh oh” moments if you don’t label everything. This is especially true during the first-leaf stage, because many of them all look the same (radishes, arugula, kale, etc.). And if you have several garden beds, you can’t possibly be expected to remember where everything is planted.

This Week’s Featured Plants

It’s time for this week’s featured plants. Last week I told you about radishes, strawberries, chives, and marigolds. This week I’m going to fill you in on kale, raspberry, thyme, and poppy.

Little disclaimer: I have enlisted the assistance of AI to give me a template I can use each week so my plant information is consistent from week to week.

Vegetable: Kale

I really enjoy kale, and hadn’t grown it until 2023 when I planted some in the straw bales on the north side of my little greenhouse. It got the early morning and late afternoon sun, but was shaded during the hottest part of the day. It absolutely loved it there!

Growing Snapshot

Sun: Full sun, with mid-afternoon shade in hot climates.

Soil: Humus-rich fertile soil; pH 6.5-7.0; amended with composted manure.

Water: Irrigate evenly to encourage fast, strong growth.

Spacing: Traditionally 18” - 24” apart, but in a raised bed setting they can be closer. Chances are you’ll have a mix of plants in your beds so smaller plants can go around the base of your kale plants.

Season: Spring to late fall, or year-round is attainable if grown in a heated greenhouse or growing dome.

Pests: The cabbage moth loves kale as well as other brassicas, so crops can be protected using a lightweight row cover. If growing on a small scale, watch for signs of the small white moths and remove any eggs or larvae you see on the plants.

Harvest: The leaves can be picked when 2-3” tall for salads, or harvested when full size. Either way, kale will not disappoint.

Helpful Tip

For a full variety of kale in your garden, get a summer blend and winter blend to ensure a continuous harvest, as well as colour.

Fun Fact

Kale is very high in vitamins A, C, K, and B6, plus potassium,calcium, and iron. It also contains the highest levels of beta-carotene in any green vegetable, which has given it the title of a superfood. Fresh is best, but freeze-dried and dehydrated kale (think kale chips) are also options when fresh isn’t available.

How I Use It

I don’t have any fresh kale (yet), but I do have kale powder which I add to my smoothies. I’m looking forward to growing it year-round in the dome so I can make it a part of my daily diet.

Fruit: Raspberry

My earliest memories involve picking raspberries in my grandparents’ garden. The canes were taller than I was, and I can remember being told to get all the red ones. I would pick along the row, and turn around to see so many more. It didn’t look like I had picked any at all. They were bright red and juicy; a far cry from the wild raspberries we had on our farm among the poplar and saskatoon trees.

Growing Snapshot

Sun: Full sun, but they will produce in the shade of other trees and plants.

Soil: Raspberries do well in a variety of soil types, but do prefer loam.

Water: Regular watering will produce larger fruit. I used to think that they preferred it on the drier side, but after being at my son’s and DIL’s this past summer during the heat I realized water does matter. They were away on vacation and the rains were few and far between, so regular watering wasn’t done…and it showed.

Spacing: I spaced my rows 2’ apart, and the canes will be allowed to fill in along the rows. I planted them about 1’ apart within the row, and will move any that pop up between the rows. That’s about the average distance, which will allow for cultivating between the rows or mulching.

Little sidenote: Raspberries will also do well in a 10 gallon growing bag if you don’t have an in-ground area for them. They will, however, require more frequent watering if not grouped with other containers.

Season: Plant in the spring or fall, and enjoy fruit from mid-July to the first frost (variety-based, as some are everbearing while others are summer bearing).

Pests: Japanese beetles, weevils, raspberry fruit worms, spider mites, spotted wing drosophila, raspberry cane borer, raspberry sawfly, and sap beetles.

Harvest: Pick the raspberries when they’re red and juicy. They’re sweetest when they’re almost ready to fall off the plant (and they often do). Eat them fresh off the canes (I always eat more than what ends up in the bucket, especially the first picking of the season.), serve with cream, freeze, or make jam, fruit leather, or raspberry fruit (cooked and canned in a jar for winter).

Helpful Tip

When freezing raspberries, spread them on a cookie sheet then put the frozen berries in a freezer bag or container. This will give you some flexibility in terms of serving size or if you only want to add a few to your smoothie. If you dump fresh ones in a bag as is, you’ll have one big raspberry lump the size of your freezer bag.

Fun Fact

Raspberries are high in vitamin C and manganese. They’re also high in fiber yet low in calories, which makes them a great snack.

How I Use It

I like to eat raspberries fresh off the cane. Last summer I bought some yogurt from a creamery near my son’s house, then added fresh-picked raspberries to it. It was a wonderful combination; so different from the commercially produced raspberry yogurt that’s available in the grocery store.

Herb: Thyme

Thyme is a personal favourite. I love the way it smells, and a simple brushing of the small, evergreen leaves releases its scent. It’s an uplifting smell (for me, anyway), and the herb can be used in cooking or made into tea.

On a trip to Red Deer, AB a couple years ago we stopped at the Gasoline Alley Farmer’s Market, and there was a booth (Kitchen Witch) filled with herbal teas and products. I bought a package of thyme tea because it has so many qualities, from easing indigestion and headaches to helping with coughs and fever.

Growing Snapshot

Sun: It thrives in full sun, but will also do well in partial shade. I had it in a corner of a raised bed and it got full sun until the other plants grew up around it, but it still did well.

Soil: Moist but well-drained as it doesn’t like wet feet. A loamy soil is best for holding moisture but allowing proper drainage.

Water: Rainfall is often sufficient, unless your area doesn’t get much during the growing season. In that case an inch per week is more than adequate, as long as the soil stays moist.

Spacing: Thyme spreads readily if given the opportunity, but it isn’t invasive like mint can be. Winter thyme will grow to about 12” tall, so makes an ideal border for herb gardens and flower beds. It’s also a great container plant.

Season: A perennial in zones 5-8; mulch in colder climates.

Pests: Aphids, spider mites, scale, deer, squirrels, and rabbits all like to have thyme on their menu. Check plants regularly for any signs of pests and take appropriate measures.

Harvest: The aromatic leaves and stems can be picked for culinary use, in sachets, or steeped to make a tea.

Helpful Tip

The smell of thyme in the garden is uplifting, so plant it throughout your space. It can be dried and made into potpourri for year-round enjoyment.

Fun Fact

Toss a few stems on the barbecue to add a lovely aroma to the smoke. Ideal when barbecuing fish.

How I Use It

I use thyme for pork, chicken, and beef on occasion, sprinkling it on right before cooking. I also like to make thyme tea if I’m feeling a little blah, as it helps with mood (at least for me).

Flower: Poppy

I currently have one Iceland poppy growing in my yard, and it’s from seeds that I scattered from a seed pod I got from my son’s yard. One thing this yard did not have was a lot of flowers when I bought it. I’m working on changing that as each year goes by, because a yard without flowers is not a pollinator-friendly yard.

Growing Snapshot

Sun: Poppies do best in full sun, but will tolerate light shade.

Soil: They’ll do well in a range of soils, from rich to poor. Some varieties are drought-tolerant (Flanders Poppy, for one) and will bloom in just about every soil type.

Water: The poppy doesn’t need a lot of water to survive. My son’s yard is exposed to the hot sun during the summer and the poppies thrive.

Spacing: Poppies don’t generally need to be spaced a certain distance apart as they’ll fill in the space they’re allowed via self-seeding. If you want to incorporate other flowers among them, I’d start with a spacing of 12” apart.

Season: Varieties such as Iceland and Oriental are hardy to zone 3, and bloom all summer long.

Pests: Aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, and beetles.

Harvest: Use for cut flowers, but also let some go to seed for use in baking.

Helpful Tip

Poppy varieties range in height from approximately 12” (Iceland) to 48” (Giganthemum), which makes them a great addition to your garden.

Fun Fact

The seed pods can be dried and used in bouquets, while the seeds can be harvested and used in baking and cooking.

How I Use It

I don’t use poppyseed a lot, but when I do it’s generally in the Ukrainian dish kutia (boiled wheat with honey and poppyseed).

Recipe Time

Kale Salad

The first kale salad I had was one I bought at the grocery store. It was one of those “everything is in the bag” deals, and it was good. It came with different varieties of kale, had some sunflower and pumpkin seeds, and a poppyseed dressing. It was great for a quick lunch.

When I grew my own kale, I made my own salad and was amazed at how much better it tasted.

You’ll need:

Kale leaves in assorted varieties (more for visual interest) if available (enough for at least 6 c. chopped)

1 c. pumpkin seeds

½ c. sunflower seeds

½ c. dried cranberries

2 c. whipped salad dressing (such as Miracle Whip)

½ c. sugar

2 tbsp. lemon juice

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Directions:

1. Cut the kale into thin strips, then cross-cut so they’re not more than 2” long.

2. Place in a bowl with the pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and dried cranberries. Mix well and set aside.

3. Mix the salad dressing, sugar, and lemon juice in a jar or measuring cup and add to the kale mix.

4. Place in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight before eating. This will allow the flavours to blend nicely.

5. Refrigerate leftovers so you can enjoy them later (if there are any, that is).

Optional serving notes or variations:

You can make the dressing ahead of time and have it chilled if you want a crunchier salad. Simply add the chilled dressing to the cut and mixed ingredients, then serve.

This recipe makes approximately 6 - 8 servings.

That’s the dirt this week.

The planting method I’ve discussed above is my favourite way to garden, and I can do it without fail. It’s easy on the knees and back, less work than an in-ground garden, and the soil and plants don’t get disturbed when my grandchildren are “helping” or picking their own snacks.

Plus, with the close planting I conserve water and the soil isn’t robbed of nutrients as quickly, which ensures healthier plants all around.

Try your hand at growing a mix of kale so you can make your own colourful salad, which will be packed with the vitamins and minerals we so often lack.

Add raspberries for a low-calorie snack, and thyme for an aromatic space you’ll love.

What’s your favourite of the 4 featured plants? Have you tried growing any of them? If not, which would you like to start with?

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Do you have any questions about gardening? Join the chat (available to all subscribers).

Well, I really can’t say there isn’t an expense, because the dome set me back almost $30k. But truth be told, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

I’ve been to Mexico and it was too hot for me. Plus, I’m not really a fan of flying. It’s not so much the flight itself; it’s the length of time it takes to get through the airport, get to the destination, then more airport time. I’d go a lot more places if I could just teleport.

My mission in the dome today was to spread some soil on the straw bales, and get at least one trellis set up. Part of my mission was accomplished, which resulted in soil added to one bed and one trellis put up.

Trellis Setup

I bought a couple of basic trellises from Amazon a couple weeks ago, and got one put together this afternoon. My plan was to set it so one side was in the perimeter bed and the other side in the central bed, but it didn’t work out that way. It was too long to fit the way I wanted it to, so I put it the length of the central bed. The other one will go on the opposite side of the central bed which will give the lower plants a nice amount of shade.

The arch trellises I bought are designed to either be 4’ wide and over 8’ tall, or 8’ wide and about 6’ tall. Given the structure of the dome, the tall version wouldn’t fit to make the tunnel I initially wanted. Granted, I could have removed some pieces but that defeats the purpose.

The central bed is in a keyhole design so any hanging fruit and vegetables will be easily accessible from both sides and the center. It’s not quite what I had envisioned but I think it will work out okay. Plus it’ll still allow for the winter sun to heat up the pond.

The Purpose of a Trellis

Trellises have one basic purpose: to keep plants from falling over so there’s less waste and more growing space.

They are also used for privacy, aesthetic appeal, and overall plant health in the garden. By keeping vining plants up off the ground there’s more air circulation which discourages pests and disease.

Types of Trellises and Plant Supports

Different trellises will have different uses. And the size of trellis will also have to be taken into consideration when you’re deciding which crops you’re planting.

Let’s start with small trellises and plant supports, and work our way up to the larger ones.

One of the simplest ways to support a plant is to use a wooden or bamboo stake. It’s ideal for plants that don’t grow very tall or require a lot of support. Simply push the stake into the soil close to your plant and secure it with twine.

Using 3 or more bamboo stakes tied at the top in teepee fashion will give plants better support. Long branches will also work, giving pruned branches a new purpose in the garden.

An obelisk is a free-standing plant support ideal for vining plants such as morning glory, nasturtiums, peas, beans, small melons, gourds, etc. If the plants will have any weight to them, secure the obelisk to the ground with an anchor (rebar, wooden stake, or screw-in).

A tomato cage is ideal for (you guessed it) tomatoes, as well as peppers, eggplant, tomatillos, ground cherries, etc.

A fan trellis is narrower at the bottom and wider at the top, generally made of wood or metal. The lengths are close together at the bottom, then spaced further as it goes higher. Wooden or metal spacers may be used to bend the sticks/rods for the fan effect.

This style is ideal for climbing flowers or vines that will be placed close to a wall.

A panel trellis is just that. A square or rectangular panel that’s placed along a wall or the north side of a raised garden bed. It’s ideal for peas, beans, cucumbers, roses, vining flowers, and squash. The vines will be up off the ground which will allow for more crop variety to be grown in a small space.

To add interest to your garden you can also put two panels together in A-frame fashion, giving you more growing space plus a secret hideaway for children (or you).

These can be any length you prefer, but I do suggest a maximum of 6’. Shorter and narrower is better, especially if you don’t have additional support for them. I have one in my front yard that is made from a 16’ cattle panel and held up using 4”x4” posts. It was put up for my hops last summer and worked great.

You may also use lattice, lightweight livestock gates, wood/wire, or commercially manufactured panel trellises.

Cattle panels can be cut to any length you like using a good set of fencing pliers or bolt cutters. Cut as close to the horizontal wire as possible, then use the “prongs” that are left to secure the panels into the soil. Depending on your needs, you can easily get 4 - 6 trellises from one 16’ panel.

An arch trellis can be made from a bent cattle panel, wood, metal, or steel. The plants should be matched with the strength of the trellis. For example, a cattle panel will work well for tomatoes, cucumbers, loofah, squash, runner beans, etc. if it’s secured to the edges of a garden bed.

I am using a cattle panel for my grapes, but the panel is attached to 4 (2 on each side) t-posts set at least 2’ into the ground. I’m confident this setup will work well even when the grapevines are mature and covering it completely.

If you’re using an arch trellis for tall vining plants such as roses, honeysuckle, etc. I suggest a wooden structure or a heavy metal one. No matter your choice of arch, be sure it is secured to the ground by using wooden stakes, rebar, or another anchoring system. You don’t want your trellis falling over because of wind or weight and hurting anyone.

Other plant supports include pergolas, arbors, fences, walls, and single poles. There’s no limit to what you can use as plant support, as long as the weight of the plant isn’t going to cause structural damage or other danger.

Placing Your Trellis

You can’t just plop a trellis down in the middle of a garden and call it good.

There are a few factors that you’ll need to consider before installing one.

1. Location of surrounding plants. Naturally you’ll want your trellis on the north side of your garden bed (or plot) so the lower plants aren’t completely shaded. Some plants will thrive in the shade, but most will not.

2. Height of your trellis. This may sound simple, but it’s a mistake that’s often made. Be sure your trellis isn’t going to interfere with lines (underground and above ground), other structures, or the neighbours.

3. Stability. Some trellises are made from light materials, while others are quite heavy. No matter what material is used, always ensure the weight of the plants aren’t going to cause the trellis to collapse. Proper anchoring is necessary; the bigger the structure the more anchoring is required.

4. Permanence. Tomato cages, stakes, fans, and panels can all be considered temporary trellises. Arbors, pergolas, and some arch trellises are considered more permanent. Take the permanence of your trellis into consideration when planning your garden to be sure it’s going to serve its purpose over time.

The trellis I installed in my dome today will be used for lighter, temporary crops. I do have a plan for grape vines in the dome as well, but that will involve 4”x4” posts anchored into the ground with a length of cattle panel across the top to support the vines and grapes as they grow.

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Wrapping It Up

No matter what you’re growing, using trellises and plant supports for vining and climbing plants ensures you’ll have better food and flower production, healthy plants, and an attractive outdoor living and growing space.

Taking your plants and support sizes into consideration will ensure you have the right support for the plants you’re growing, as well as ensuring those supports are safe for you and your family.

Based on your gardening experience, what type of plant support has worked best for you? Let me know in the comments below.

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Do you have questions about gardening?